Yesterday we visited Haridwar, one of the most sacred sites to the Hindus, close to the source of the Ganges. It was so good to get out of the city for a while, and get away from the baking heat. It was also my first experience with an Indian bus! Soon we were bouncing along out of the town, mango groves lining the roads. My guide pointed out the University of a Guru named Ram Dev, apparently quite well known and sought after in the UK and US. He gives lessons and workshops relating to health and healing, particularly through breathing and diet. He has had an audience with the Queen.

Haridwar itself is a crazy, bustling smoky mess of a town. I loved it. Riding through the streets on a rickshaw we saw sacred cows wondering around nonchalantly or sitting in the middle of the road, women in their bright yellow and orange saris (so intense), street sellers hawking nuts, fruits and souvenirs, as well as the smell of incense. Although we were travelling down a road you could barely move for people, and our rickshaw driver had to keep stopping and starting, acting against the momentum of our three bulks. As we got closer to the Ganges more and more flies swarmed around our feet and the roads got busier. We started seeing beggars with horrible deformities and wondering Sadhus with long white hair and beards. When we reached the Ganges you could see the full extent of both the river and the sheer number of people. As far as you could see in both directions, from the huge statue of Kali to the North and the fast flowing water South, there were bathers. Men, women and whole families and people of all ages bathing together. There were people swimming, diving off bridges, splashing about
or simply enjoying the cool water. Me and my guide stripped down and went to bathe. After the insane heat of the day (I woke up sweating at 830) the cool waters were so refreshing. Dipping I felt renewed and revitalised, my headache lifted and my body cool.

On the slow walk back we stopped for some food, before getting the evening bus back.